Interpretation of traditional techniques

by Misik Kim

Many countries have traditional sewing techniques.

I am so interested in traditional techniques such as wrapping cloth technique “Bojagi”

Are you interested in traditional techniques?

I challenge you to use the traditional technique of your country or other country with your own interpretation.

The vertical dimension should be 40’’ and Pleas choose your horizontal dimension between 18” and 54”.

Have fun

Australian Waggas

Australian patchwork tradition came with the first fleet convicts from England but mainly in the form of 2 layered coverlets. The Aboriginal use of possum skins and the making of cloaks from these is noted in the book above, The Gentle Arts -200 years of Australian Women's Domestic & Decorative Arts by Jennifer Isaacs 1987.

What sparks my interest and attention is the Bush Quilt or Wagga often made from scraps or suiting samples and stuffed with used clothing for warmth. Made during the late 19th and early 20th century they were used by men who worked the land or families as a utilitarian quilt. Dr Annette Gero in her book above, The Fabric of Society- Australia's Quilt Heritage from Convict Times to 1960 has a chapter on the wagga.

A wonderful photo of the maker and the Rabbiter's wagga

The innards of a wagga- old jumpers/cardigans.

Drawing inspiration from this tradition and technique I have used an older quilt as the base on which to build my design.

New material on the left and the original quilt on the right. This will be totally covered.

Design auditioning. Thanks Misik for the opportunity to look at the wagga tradition.

 



 

 

American Art

The latest challenge invites artists to use a traditional quilting technique from their home country.  I found it difficult to find an example of a quilting technique that was uniquely “American” that I could really get excited about.  Even though quilting is very popular in the US, the well known patterns and techniques we use today were brought to this country by colonists and immigrants, and often reflect traditions from their native lands.


So I expanded my search and started looking through my old college textbooks on Art History.  The Abstract Expressionist movement was born in New York in the early 1940s. This was the first time a critically recognized art movement was identified with America rather than Europe, specifically Paris.  “Having matured as artists at a time when America suffered economically and felt culturally isolated and provincial, the Abstract Expressionists were later welcomed as the first authentically American avant-garde. Their art was championed for being emphatically American in spirit - monumental in scale, romantic in mood, and expressive of a rugged individual freedom.”
From: http://www.theartstory.org/movement-abstract-expressionism.htm






I’m especially attracted to the work of Jackson Pollock, who revolutionized the idea of painting by pouring, dripping, and flinging paint directly onto a canvas. There was no subject or context to the work other than the artist’s own gestures.  I love the tension between chance and control that Pollock’s paintings create.  He was very much connected to the painting, even though his brush never actually touched the surface of the canvas. These painting were carefully composed, not randomly thrown together. He very deliberately drew lines with the paint, often walking around on the canvas itself to add lines of various thickness in specific areas.  But at the same time he accepted the idea that the paint could take a journey of its own, between the time it left his paint can or stick and the moment it attached itself to the canvas. 

    

My work is typically subject-driven, planned out and tightly controlled when it comes to cutting of the fabric and guiding the machine stitched lines.  It might be fun to loosen up the reigns just to see what happens.

Traditional Techniques

The UK is a country full of traditional techniques in quilting. Here are some that come to mind.

1. English paper piecing, where the fabric is stabilised with paper templates - the most obvious pattern is hexagons. A hand-stitching technique.

  

2. Wholecloth quilts have the quilting design traced or printed on plain fabric, and then it is stitched by hand of by machine.  The designs are usually very intricate.

3. Strippy quilts. They are simply made with strips of material, often also intricately quilted afterwards.  Traditional ones may come from either Wales or the North Country.

  

I don’t think I can bring myself to work with any of the first two techniques.  But the third really appeals to me, so I will go with strips.  Not likely to look like the traditional strippy quilts, though!

What's old is new

I learned to sew when I was young. My mother is an amazing seamstress and excels at complicated patterns and tailoring. She made all the clothes for our family and I spent many afternoons on the floor of her closet watching her sew.

The first item I sewed was a beanbag toy shaped like a turtle. I moved on to sewing doll clothes and then my own. I continued making my own clothes whenever I could steal time on mom’s machine or during the summer when I visited the grandparents. Unfortunately by the time I inherited my grandmother’s machine, I was well entrenched in a career that required long hours and travel and left no time for creative pursuits.

Decades later, my mother-in-law showed me quilt after beautiful quilt to entice me to learn her craft. There were traditional log cabin quilts, hand appliqued marvels and quilts with dizzying piecing of colorful half square triangles. Her passion and skill were so evident, it was hard not to succumb. My love of sewing overwhelmed my lack of desire and I plunged into quilting head first.

From this I learned: if you want to make someone a quilter, show them your quilts. I also learned I love piecing! What I realized quickly after, however, is that I don’t like repetition.

My mother-in-law gave me a traditional round and round kit for my birthday that year and I barely completed half the blocks. I just couldn’t bring myself to continue doing the same thing over and over again. As a result, I erroneously equated tradition with boredom.

On one hand, I’m thankful, because disdain for tradition led me to discover art quilting. And yet, I have this lingering sense of loss. I have never made a log cabin quilt! I have never hand quilted or hand appliqued anything. Embroidery scares me. I have never attempted those very things from Anna’s quilts that stunned and captivated me in the beginning.

Thank goodness for the grace of aging! I’m more mature now and I welcome the opportunity to explore the unknown. What is old, is new to me. Thank you Misik for a chance to reflect and to reclaim the roots of this splendid art form.

Log Cabins in Alsace

What a privilege to attend the European Patchwork Meeting and share Viewpoints 9 with Europe!  The exhibits were filled with new, exciting, though-provoking, inspiring exhibitions from Europe and beyond - - but, also, included some beautiful examples of traditional Log Cabin quilts from the International Quilt Study Center and Museum collection in Lincoln, Nebraska.  Some food for thought in our current challenge….

From the EPM program:

LOG CABIN, BETWEEN TRADITION AND MODERNITY

Coordinator: « Les Editions de Saxe » in partnership with the IQSC&M/Quilt House, Lincoln, NE (USA)

First published in 1995, « Editions de Saxe's » magazine « Magic Patch » has always been in close relation with and promoting contemporary and traditional artists.

As for International Quilt Study Center and Museum renamed a little while ago Quilt House, it regularly exhibits some of its numerous collections, choosing mostly historic themes.

These very instructive exhibitions give us the opportunity to better understand the American quilt history.

Thanks to the partnership between these two institutions, the EPM will be able to present a wonderful and meaningful exhibition.

Memory of Red

by Lin Hsin-Chen

Tradition is not a new word to me, but when it comes to the traditional sewing techniques in Taiwan, I find myself so unfamiliar with it. I have no idea how to explain the traditional techniques to you. I have to admit that I haven't been paying much attention to it. Thank you, Misik, for giving me the opportunity to think about the subject and to find out the tradition that I am not familiar with. Here is not the complete information, but I would like to share a few images with you.

First of all, I would like to introduce the “shoulang yam”. Shoulang yam is a very important plant to Taiwanese aborigines. It is a traditional dyestuff. Why is it so important? Fibers dyed with shoulang yam are believed to ward off negative situations. It is also being used as mosquito repellents and it helps to strengthen the toughness of fabrics. Most importantly, it’s a beautiful red color. For Taiwanese people, red symbolize joy. Everyone wants to live a joyful life!

Shoulang yam is traditionally much used by Taiwanese aborigines as natural dyes.

(Photo from: http://goo.gl/evjNd9)

The tubers of shoulang yam

(Photo from: http://goo.gl/GWzeV5)

Next, I would like to talk about traditional sewing techniques in Taiwan. Weaving has not been emphasized in the literature, but it’s a very common technique for Taiwanese aborigines. Lots of images of Taiwanese weaving works can be found in Google. Paper mulberry, ramie and banana tree string are 3 common natural fibers. They are weaved in red or its natural color to form very special patterns. It’s an irreplaceable traditional technique.

Atayal traditional groom costume

(Photo from: http://goo.gl/ibEvuZ)

The favorite color of Atayal culture is red.

(Photo from: http://goo.gl/ISOMgA)

There is also a very detailed technique for celebrations - the gorgeous embroidery. Embroidery has a long history in Taiwan, but not many people pay attention to it or learn it now. Though it is somewhat a sunset industry, I have always been fascinated by its gorgeousness.

Traditional Embroidery Art by Tainan Kuang Tsai Embroidery Shop

These are some rough information about the traditional techniques in Taiwan that I know. There are some other techniques that I need to do further research. Just share some of them with you. Thank you. Enjoy creating the 4th challenge!